Water and Plumbing Setup for Container Homes

Designing the water and plumbing system for a container home requires careful planning, as the compact space and unique structure present specific challenges and opportunities. Whether you’re connecting to a municipal supply or going off-grid, understanding the components and considerations is crucial for a functional and comfortable living space.

1. Source of Water

Your first decision is how you’ll get water into your container home.

A. Municipal Water Connection (On-Grid)

This is the most straightforward option if available.

• How it Works: Your container home connects directly to the local public water supply line.
• Pros: Reliable, pressurized water; no need for storage or pumps; water quality is managed by the municipality.
• Cons: Requires access to a municipal line (may not be available in rural areas); connection fees; monthly water bills.
• Setup: A licensed plumber will typically connect your home’s main water line to the municipal service line, usually via a trench and an approved connection point with a shut-off valve.

B. Well Water

Common for rural and off-grid properties.

• How it Works: A well is drilled, and a submersible pump brings groundwater to the surface.
• Pros: Independent water source; no monthly water bills (after initial setup).
• Cons: High upfront drilling cost; pump requires electricity; water quality can vary and may require filtration/treatment; requires pressure tank.
• Setup: Professional well drillers and pump installers are essential. You’ll need a pressure tank to maintain consistent water pressure in your home.

C. Rainwater Harvesting

Excellent for off-grid or supplementing other sources.

• How it Works: Rainwater is collected from your roof (or an auxiliary catchment surface), filtered, and stored in cisterns.
• Pros: Free, renewable water source; reduces reliance on other sources.
• Cons: Dependent on rainfall; requires large storage tanks (cisterns); requires filtration/purification for potable use; requires a pump and pressure tank.
• Setup: You’ll need gutters and downspouts connected to a series of pre-filters (leaf screens, first flush diverters) leading to one or more storage cisterns. A pump will draw water from the cisterns into your home, often with a pressure tank. Further filtration (sediment, carbon, UV sterilization) is crucial for drinking water.

D. Trucked-In Water

A temporary or supplemental solution.

• How it Works: Water is delivered by a service and pumped into your on-site storage tanks.
• Pros: Useful in remote areas without other options.
• Cons: Ongoing cost; requires large storage tanks; scheduling deliveries.
• Setup: Requires on-site water storage tanks and a pump/pressure system similar to rainwater harvesting.

2. Water Storage (For Off-Grid/Well/Rainwater)

If not directly connected to municipal water, you’ll need storage.

• Cisterns/Tanks: These come in various materials (polyethylene, fiberglass, concrete) and sizes. Consider your daily usage and desired “days of autonomy” (how long you can go without refilling/rain) when sizing. Tanks can be above-ground, partially buried, or fully buried.
• Placement: Consider proximity to your container, sunlight exposure (to prevent algae growth), and ease of access for filling/maintenance.

3. Water Delivery System (Pressure)

Unless you’re on municipal water, you’ll need a pump and pressure tank.

• Water Pump: Submersible pumps for wells, or surface-mounted pumps for cisterns. Choose a pump appropriate for your head pressure (vertical lift) and flow rate needs.
• Pressure Tank: Works with the pump to maintain consistent water pressure throughout your plumbing system, preventing the pump from cycling on and off every time you open a tap.